The best way to familiarise yourself with the town is to follow the “Becher Drinking Cure” buy a porcelain “sipping cup” from one of the spas and drink from each of the 13 springs located around Vary. Karlovy VaryĪlso known as Carlsbad, Vary (as the Czechs call it) is best known for the thermal spa waters that have made the town a popular resort since the 19th century, and the elegant colonnades that run beside the river. Where to stay: the Bellevue is a mid-16th century Cesky institution, with a brick-vaulted wine cellar, charming summer garden and chic modern rooms. Getting there: two hours 50 minutes from Prague by train. Pair history with art with a visit to the Egon Schiele Art Centrum, and indulge in a long lunch on a riverside terrace the Vltava restaurant ( ) serves classic Czech dishes with stunning castle views. The 162-step climb up the castle’s tower is worth it for the amazing views, and the 17th-century baroque theatre housed within its walls is one of the most complete in Europe. The cobbled streets and elegant main square are lined with houses in sugar-almond colours (powder blue, mint green, egg-yolk yellow) and dominated by the grandiose 13th-century castle. Bisected by the sinuous Vltava river, the city escaped bombing during the Second World War, leaving a perfectly preserved Old Town. Photograph: Ratnakorn Piyasirisorost/Getty ImagesĪs beautiful as Prague but less crowded, Cesky is located among the rolling hills of the South Bohemia region. Doubles from £70 room only, Cesky Krumlov Slightly surreally, the spooky ossuary is right next door.
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Where to stay: the quirky MuzeumLega has comfortable rooms with small kitchenettes and Lego sets, a sunny garden and free entry to the adjoining museum, home to the largest private Lego collection in the world.
Getting there: one hour 20 minutes from Prague by train. For traditional dishes – dumplings and roasted pork – head to Dacicky ( ), with its long trestle tables and tremendous portions or for something more contemporary try Factory ( ) for excellent burgers, pizza and pasta. Dip into Hrádek, the town’s museum of silver, and brace yourself for the macabre Sedlec Ossuary, where bones and skulls are worked into the fabric of the chapel. In medieval times, the nearby silver mines saw Kutná produce a third of all Europe’s silver, leaving a legacy of imposing Gothic churches, a stunning Baroque Jesuit College and the 13th-century Italian Court, a sprawling palace that once contained the royal mint. Around 45 miles from Prague, this small town in Central Bohemia punches well above its weight thanks to its wealthy past.
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